Leopard Gecko
Care Guide

Enclosures: 

Leopard Geckos are terrestrial, meaning they spend most of their time on the ground. An enclosure that has ample floor space is required. We recommend housing your Leopard Gecko individually. 

• Adult Size: For a single adult Leopard Gecko, a 20-Gallon Long is the minimum size we recommend. 20 Gallons come in a “High” and “Long” variety, and we recommend the “Long” version because it has more floor space (30”x12”x12”). A 40-Gallon tank is a great larger size!  

• Juvenile Size: For a single baby or juvenile Leopard Gecko, a standard 10 Gallon is the minimum size we recommend until they are large enough to be upgraded.  
  
  Material:  

• Glass Terrariums with a mesh top for ventilation work well and are commonly available. Depending on your state, you may need to cover some of the mesh top to help retain humidity. Leopard Geckos require low humidity (more below), so only very dry areas should consider taping some of the mesh off if needed to achieve optimal humidity. 

• PVC terrariums are a fantastic choice for Leopard Geckos due to their opaque walls. 

• Front-opening enclosures are recommended for their ease of use and functionality!  

• Front-opening glass enclosure brands include Exo Terra, Zilla, and Zoo Med. PVC enclosures can be purchased online at Dubia.com and other retailers. A fish tank with a mesh lid (with clamps that lock securely) can also be used. Facebook marketplace, Offerup, and other sites also have affordable tanks for resale – please ensure any used tank is fully disinfected with F10 Veterinary Reptile Disinfectant or similar first. 
  
  Ventilation:

• Proper airflow from the mesh is important to prevent stagnant air!  

 

 

Humidity: 

Leopard Geckos are a low-humidity species. Higher humidity during shed, and a humid hide-box will help geckos regulate to their needs. 

• Ideal Humidity Levels: Maintain humidity levels between 35%-55%.  

• Monitoring: Use a digital hygrometer in the enclosure to monitor humidity levels (we use Govee brand on Amazon combo thermometer/hygrometer). Remove the hygrometer if you are misting so it does not get wet. 

• Humid Hide: Provide a moist hide or shedding box filled with damp sphagnum moss or paper towels in the middle of the enclosure (in the gradient zone between warm and cold sides). This helps the gecko shed its skin more easily, particularly around the toes and tail. By providing a hide that is enclosed except for a small hole, and kept damp inside, your Leopard Gecko can choose to enter a more humid environment on their terms.  

 

Diet & Feeding: 

Leopard Geckos are insectivores, meaning their diet consists primarily of live insects. 

• Staple Insects: Crickets, mealworms, discoid/dubia roaches, and black soldier fly larvae are the most common staple insects for leopard geckos. Waxworms, hornworms, and silkworms can be offered occasionally as treats due to their higher fat content. 

• Variety: The key to keeping your Leopard Gecko happy and healthy is a varied diet! We recommend at least two different staple insects are fed in rotation. The more the better! If you can feed crickets one feeding, mealworms the next, and a  

• Calcium: Leave a small dish with plain Calcium with D3 out at all times for self-regulation. This is not a substitution for calcium dusting insects – all insects need to be dusted with calcium powder! 

• Supplementation: Dust insects with calcium powder at every feeding and with a vitamin D3 supplement 2-3 times per week. This helps prevent metabolic bone disease and other nutritional deficiencies. 

• Gut-Loading: Feed the insects a nutritious diet before offering them to your gecko to ensure they are packed with nutrients. 

• Feeding Schedule: Baby leopard geckos should be fed daily, while juveniles can be fed every other day. Older adults may only need to eat once or twice a week! Water Dish: A small, shallow water dish should be provided at all times, even though crested geckos often prefer to drink from water droplets after misting. 

 

Temperature & Lighting: 

Leopard geckos rely on external heat sources to regulate their body temperature (they are ectothermic). They require a temperature gradient with a “hot” side and “cool” side. Leopard geckos are most active at dawn, overnight, and at dusk (they are crepuscular). During the day they will mostly sleep, and in the evening begin to explore! 

 

Albino Leopard Geckos can have eyes that are very sensitive to regular light and UVB lighting.  

 

• Lighting: Offer 10-12 hours of light per day for a consistent day/night cycle. This can be achieved with your ambient lights, or an LED light. Do NOT use colored lights overnight (no red night bulbs). 

 

• Temperature Range: The enclosure should have a temperature gradient from a warm side to a cool side: 

• Warm side:  Basking surface temperature 88-95°F (measured with laser temp gun) 
             Ambient air temperature of 80-85°F  

• Middle gradient: Ambient air temperature 75-80°F. Humid hide should go here.  

• Cool side: Ambient air temperature of 75-80°F 

• An overnight drop in temperature to 70-75°F is ideal for Leopard Geckos! You can turn the heating and light elements off at night if your home is at a comfortable room-temperature to achieve this slight overnight temperature drop. Nighttime temperatures can safely drop to 65°F. 
   

• Monitoring: The temperatures must be monitored by a Laser Infrared Thermometer Gun. Point the laser at the ground/substrate, and read the temperature. The ground the gecko is in contact with should read 90-92°F on the warm side to ensure a high enough temperature to properly digest their food. It is essential (especially if you are using an under-tank heating mat) to read the warm side ground temperature with the thermometer gun at ~90°F. 

• You can also use a digital thermometer (we use Govee brand on Amazon combo thermometer/hygrometer) to monitor the air temperatures in the enclosure. However, the laser infrared thermometer gun described above is required.  
   

• Heating Equipment: Heating equipment is required to achieve the 88-92°F warm side of the enclosure. Two options exist: Under-Tank Heating mats, and Over-Head Bulbs. Under-tank heating mats are acceptable for heat, but the best recommendation is a Halogen heat bulb. Read about both below: 
  
  1 - Under-Tank Heaters (“UTH”): 

• Under-tank heaters are adhesive heating pads attached to the bottom of the enclosure on the warm side. They provide a consistent heat source that warms the substrate and creates a warm basking area. They only provide warmth, and do not provide  

• Placement: The UTH should cover about one-third of the tank's floor area, allowing for a temperature gradient within the enclosure. The heat pad will be the warm side. 

• Thermostat: You MUST connect the UTH to a thermostat to prevent overheating and ensure the temperature remains within the desired range. Using a UTH without a thermostat can lead to overheating and burns. You can place the thermostat probe between the heat mat and enclosure, and set the thermostat’s temperature so when the substrate is read with a laser thermometer gun, it reads 88-9°F 2. This means your thermostat temperature may be higher or lower than 90°F, as long as the actual substrate the gecko comes into contact with read 88-92°F with the laser gun. 

• Pros & Cons: UTHs are relatively inexpensive and easy to install. However, they only provide warmth. They do not provide sun-mimicking infrared like UVA and IRA. While many Leopard Geckos are kept with under tank heat mats as their heat source for their entire lives, we recommend using a Halogen or similar heat lamp as described below whenever possible.  
  
  2 - Heat Lamps: 

• Heat lamps, such as halogen bulbs, deep heat projectors, and ceramic heat emitters, provide overhead heat and can be used to create a warm basking spot with more natural sun-mimicking rays.  

• Placement: Place the heat lamp on the warm side of the enclosure, ensuring it is securely mounted and positioned at a safe distance from the gecko to prevent burns or the gecko accessing the lamp. Like the heat mats mentioned above, it should be placed on one side of the enclosure, not in the middle, to create a temperature gradient.  

• Thermostat: You MUST connect the heat lamp to a thermostat to prevent overheating and ensure the temperature remains within the desired range. Using a heat lamp of any kind without a thermostat can lead to overheating and burns. You can place the thermostat probe near the gecko’s warm hide, and use a laser temperature gun to ensure the substrate/ground reads 88-92°F. 

• Pros & Cons: Over-head heat lamps are recommended over under-tank heat mats, but can be more costly and possibly confusing for new keepers. Care must be taken to ensure the dome the bulb is placed in is rated for the bulb’s wattage and type. The most natural and recommended bulb is the Halogen bulb. Deep heat projectors are our second choice, and our last choice is the ceramic heat emitter. Ceramic heat emitters only produce heat (like a heating pads). Turn off all heat and lights at night, and do not use red bulbs overnight. See beginning of section for more information about a small nighttime temperature drop. 
   

• UVB Lighting: (Albino Leopard Geckos may be more sensitive to UVB!)  

• We recommend offering UVB lighting, but it is not strictly required. A low-level UVB light can be beneficial, especially in stimulating natural behaviors and ensuring Vitamin D3 synthesis, which helps with calcium absorption. 

• Leopard Geckos are Ferguson Zone 1, with a recommended UVI of 0.1-0.7, and a maximum exposure of 0.7-1.4. The Reptile Lighting Facebook group is a great resource for those wanting to learn more about UVB lighting.  

• Depending on if the UVB is mounted inside the enclosure or placed on top of mesh (mesh blocks UVB partially), we recommend the Arcadia ShadeDweller 2.4%, or Arcadia ShadeDweller 7%. UVB light does NOT penetrate glass, so having the enclosure near a sunny window will NOT provide UVB.  

• Do NOT use a coil UVB, as these do not provide consistent output. You MUST use a linear UVB like the Arcadia Reptiles ShadeDweller Linear or Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 Linear.  
  
   

Substrate: 

Choosing the right substrate is crucial to avoid health issues like impaction, which can occur if the gecko ingests loose substrate. We strongly recommend any new gecko you bring home be kept on a non-loose substrate like paper towel for at least 1-2 months. Never use Calci-Sand or sand by itself!  

• Safe Substrates: Paper towels,  brown Kraft paper, reptile carpet, slate tiles, and non-adhesive shelf liner are all safe and easy-to-clean substrate options. These prevent impaction and are hygienic. 

• Safe Loose Substrate: Only once a gecko is well established!  

•     Pre-Mixed: Arcadia EarthMix Arid, and BioDude’s Terra Sahara. 

•     Mix at Home:  70% top soil, 30% play sand. See recommendations below: 

•           Organic Topsoil: no additives or fertilizers! Most common brand at hardware stores is the red and white Timberline Soil Top Soil. 

•            Sand: Zoo Med ReptiSand (only this specific bag), or regular “Play Sand” from a hardware store. 

• Substrate Depth: The substrate should be 2”-6” deep. 

• Cleaning: Spot-clean the substrate daily to remove waste, and replace or clean the substrate entirely every 1-2 weeks, depending on the type used. 

• NEVER USE: Regular sand, Calcium Sand/VitaSand, aspen, crushed walnut, wood chips, eco-earth (coconut coir), or reptile carpet (known for teeth and nails getting stuck). When in doubt, paper towel or brown Kraft paper make a safe substrate. 
   

Decor: 

Enclosure decor is not just for aesthetics! It is required to add enrichment, hiding places, climbing opportunities, and help your gecko feel safe and comfortable.  

• Hides: Provide at least three hides that are slightly larger than the gecko for them to feel safe. A warm side hide, a moist/shedding hide in the middle, and a cool side hide. Adding more hides made from cork bark or cork bark rounds, plastic caves, and wood can also be fun and looks great! 

• Plants: Artificial plants (or reptile-safe live plants) should be abundant, so there is plenty of clutter and places for the gecko to hide and explore. 

• Climbing: Despite being terrestrial, Leopard Geckos love to climb! You can provide some elevated areas for them to climb (with cork bark, stone, or plastic reptile decor; avoid hammocks as their toes can get stuck). Ensure the climbing areas are not too high (for an adult we keep climbing areas under 12” to be safe).  

 

Other Considerations: 

• Cohabitation: We do not recommend cohabitation. Leopard Geckos should never be kept together due to possible aggression. 

• Handling: Leopard Geckos are generally docile and easy to handle. They may be nervous as babies or when you first pick them up. Babies may even squeak at you! Lower your hands into the enclose at their level so they can clearly see them. Picking them up from above may scare them. Slowly use you hands to "cup" the gecko in your hands. Never lift them or grab them by the tail! Remember: Leopard Geckos are ground geckos, so they cannot climb surfaces. Always ensure you are holding them gently but securely! 

• Tail dropping: When geckos become stressed, they may drop their entire tail like other lizard species. Leopard Geckos will regenerate their tail if they drop it, but it may grow back . Tail drops are less common with Leopard Geckos than other lizard species. Tail drops can occur due to fear, rough handling, loud startling noises, being chased, or seemingly for no apparent reason at all. If your gecko drops their tail, do not panic! Move your gecko to a paper towel or brown Kraft paper substrate (for cleanliness) if possible, and ensure the tail area does not get dirty. Reach out to us with any questions. 

• Shedding: Leopard Geckos generally shed every 4-8 weeks, depending on their size and age. Younger geckos will shed more frequently. Younger geckos may also be more prone to shedding problems (like stuck shed on their toes or tail) than adults. Visually check your gecko’s toes, tail, and body for signs of stuck shed. Having a humid hide available at all times, and slightly increasing the humidity when your gecko is about to or is in shed, can help reduce shed problems. You may know your gecko is about to shed because they will appear gray or more dull in color.

• Vitamins and supplements: Live insects must be dusted with a calcium supplement at every feeding (calcium with D3 if you are not using dedicated UVB lighting measured with a solarmeter, so using calcium WITH D3 will apply to most keepers). Calcium dust every insect you feed every feeding! You can use a vitamin (like Zoo Med ReptiVite) once every 2 weeks instead of your calcium powder dusting as a vitamin. We use Repashy Calcium Plus to dust all live insects for every feeding, as it is a calcium and vitamin supplement all in one that is designed for regular use.