Crested Gecko
Care Guide

IN-DEPTH RECOMMENDATIONS:

Enclosures: 

Crested Geckos are arboreal, meaning they spend most of their time in trees and climbing. An enclosure that is taller than wide is required. We recommend housing your Crested Gecko individually. 

• Adult Size: For a single adult Crested Gecko, a vertical tank of 12”x12”x18” (~15 gallons) is the minimum size we recommend. We strongly recommend an 18” cube, or an 18”x18”x24” (or even larger for adults!)

• Juvenile Size: For a single baby or juvenile Crested Gecko, a vertical tank of 8”x8”x12”, 10 gallon, or 12”x12”x18” will work (based on the gecko’s size) until upgrading as they grow. 

• Keeping a small baby in a large enclosure can be difficult for new keepers. Keeping a baby in a smaller enclosure can help ensure they find their food easily and have enough hiding places to feel comfortable.  
  Material:  

• Glass Terrariums with a mesh top for ventilation work well and are commonly available. Depending on your state, you may need to cover some of the mesh top to help retain humidity. In Florida, we use HVAC tape to cover ~50% of the mesh.  

• PVC terrariums are a fantastic choice for Crested Geckos due to their opaque walls and better humidity retention. 

• Front opening, glass enclosure brands include Exo Terra, Zilla, and Zoo Med. PVC enclosures can be purchased online at Dubia.com and other retailers. Facebook marketplace, Offerup, and other sites also have affordable tanks for resale – please ensure any used tank is fully disinfected with F10 Veterinary Reptile Disinfectant or similar first. 

• Ventilation: Proper airflow is important to prevent stagnant air. Misting the enclosure will help maintain humidity that is lost by ventilation (see below).  
   

Humidity: 

Humidity is crucial for Crested Geckos, as it aids in shedding and their overall health. Depending on where you live, you may need a different misting and monitoring schedule (dry vs humid home).  

• Ideal Humidity Levels: Maintain humidity levels between 50-75%.  

• A “dry-out” period of 45-55% humidity should be achieved before misting again to raise the humidity to 70-80%. Constantly wet and high humidity can be just as harmful as too dry! 

• Monitoring: Use a digital hygrometer in the enclosure to monitor humidity levels (we use Govee brand on Amazon combo thermometer/hygrometer). Remove the hygrometer when misting so it does not get wet. 

• Misting: Mist the enclosure with dechlorinated water as needed (bottled water or tap water treated with Zoo Med ReptiSafe). For most homes, misting is normally needed ~1x per day in the evening. 

• Location matters! If you live in a very dry state and are using a glass terrarium, you may need to mist several times a day to achieve >50% humidity levels. If you are in a humid state and using a PVC enclosure, you may only need to mist 1-2x per week! Using a digital hygrometer is very important for ensuring proper humidity.  

• Ideally, work towards a schedule where you mist in the evening for a higher overnight period, and then a lower “dry-out” humidity drop during the day before misting again.  

Diet & Feeding: 

Crested Geckos eat fruit and insects in the wild. Powdered complete gecko diets are fed as a staple. 

• Commercial Powdered Diets: The easiest and most balanced diet is a commercially prepared Crested Gecko Diet (CGD) powder. We feed primarily Pangea, Zoo Med, and Repashy brands. 

• CGD Preparation: Mix 1 part powder to 1-2 parts water (1:1 – 1:2). Adjust the amount of water to reach the desired consistency, which should be a thin ketchup. Mix the diet and water well so the texture is smooth and not grainy (some diets, like Pangea Growth and Breeder, will still have a chunky texture). Geckos prefer smooth texture to grainy texture. 
   

• Insects: We strongly recommend offering live insects, but it is not strictly required as Crested Gecko can be fed only powdered diets. Adding insects is great enrichment and protein!  

• Recommended insects include: crickets, discoid/dubia roaches, small mealworms, black soldier fly larvae, and silkworms. We offer live insects 1-2 times per week, generally no larger than the size of the space between their eyes. Insects should be gut-loaded (fed nutritious food) before feeding, and dusted with calcium powder. Live insects should always be dusted and coated with a calcium powder before being offered to your gecko. If you are not using a specialized UVB bulb, use a calcium powder WITH D3. We recommend Repashy Calcium Plus, Zoo Med ReptiCalcium, Pangea Calcium, & Miner-All.  
   

• Feeding Schedule: Adult crested geckos should be fed 3-4 times per week. Babies and juveniles may require more frequent feedings of every 1-2 days. We find feeding juveniles every other day, and adults every third day, works well for us. Remember, reptiles do not have the same metabolism as a mammal! Powdered gecko diet can be kept for up to 1 week in the fridge. Prepared diet in the enclosure should be removed after 24-48 hours.  

• Water Dish: A small, shallow water dish should be provided at all times, even though crested geckos often prefer to drink from water droplets after misting. 

Temperature & Lighting: 

Crested geckos do not tolerate heat above 85 °F! They thrive at room temperature. Crested geckos are most active at dawn, overnight, and at dusk (they are nocturnal or crepuscular depending on the source). During the day they will mostly sleep, and in the evening begin to explore!  

• Temperature Range: The ideal temperature range is 72-78°F (22-25°C). Brief overnight temperature drops as low as 65°F (18°C) are tolerated. Temperatures below 65°F (18°C) or above 85°F (29°C) can be harmful. Never allow your gecko to be in an environment above 85°F (29°C)!  

• Monitoring: Use a digital thermometer (we use Govee brand on Amazon combo thermometer/hygrometer) to monitor temperatures in the enclosure.  
   

• Heating Equipment: As most homes are kept in the 70-78°F range, heating equipment is not required unless your home drops below 65°F regularly. If you live in a cold climate where additional heat is needed, a low-wattage deep heat projector or ceramic heat emitter can be used with a thermostat. 
   

• Lighting: Offer 10-12 hours of light per day for a consistent day/night cycle. This can be achieved with your ambient lights, or an LED light (ensure the light you choose does not get hot and heat up the enclose – see above temperature warning). 
   

• UVB Lighting: We recommend offering UVB lighting, but it is not strictly required. A low-level UVB light can be beneficial, especially in stimulating natural behaviors and ensuring Vitamin D3 synthesis, which helps with calcium absorption. Crested Geckos are Ferguson Zone 1, with a recommended UVI of 0.1-0.7, and a maximum exposure of 0.7-1.4. The Reptile Lighting Facebook group is a great resource for those wanting to learn more about UVB lighting. Depending on if the UVB is mounted inside the enclosure or placed on top of mesh (mesh blocks UVB partially), we recommend the Arcadia ShadeDweller 2.4% Arboreal, or Arcadia ShadeDweller 7%. UVB light does NOT penetrate glass, so having the enclosure near a sunny window will NOT provide UVB. 
   

Substrate: 

A variety of substrates can be used. The substrate should be safe (low risk of injury or ingestion), easy to clean, and some can even help maintain humidity levels. 

• Safe Substrates: Options include paper towel or brown Kraft paper (changed frequently, can be used as a long-term safe option, but it is not as aesthetically appealing), coconut fiber (brand names include Eco-Earth, retains moisture well, but has a low possible risk of impaction), and bioactive substrates designed for tropical environments (BioDude Terra Fauna, or a home mix).  

• When you bring a new gecko home, we always recommend keeping them on paper towel or brown Kraft paper for several weeks to ensure you can monitor their fecal output. This helps ensure they are eating and defecating properly.  
   

Decor: 

Enclosure decor is not just for aesthetics! It is required to add enrichment, hiding places, climbing opportunities, and help your gecko feel safe and comfortable.  

• Climbing: Add branches, vines, and cork bark to allow for climbing and exploration. Plastic vines and branches with suction cups work well and are easy to clean. Watch natural materials like cork bark for possible mold.  

• Hides: Provide multiple hiding spots at different heights within the enclosure. We recommend a hide on the ground, and one or two at different spots in the enclosure.  

• Plants: Artificial plants and vines come with suction cups to add plenty of hiding and climbing opportunities. Live plants like pothos or bromeliads can help maintain humidity and provide a naturalistic environment (check that plants are reptile-safe and cleaned before adding to a tank).  

• The more plants and clutter you provide, the safer your gecko will feel, and the more comfortable they will be exploring and coming out of their hides. 

Other Considerations: 

• Cohabitation: We do not recommend cohabitation. Males should never be kept together due to aggression. A male and female pair will likely breed and produce fertile eggs. Two females can also show aggression towards each other, and a more dominant female can prevent the less dominant female from eating. Cohabitation should only be done by experienced keepers that understand the possible risks to the animal’s health and the extra enclosure size and care requirements.  

• Handling: Crested Geckos are generally docile and easy to handle. They may be jumpy when you first pick them up, but are easy to hold and will “hand walk” on your hands. They may jump, so have a hand ready out in front to catch them if they jump! If your gecko jumps and falls on the floor, slowly and calmly pick them up. They are tolerant of short falls and should not be injured. 

• Tail dropping: When geckos become stressed, they may drop their entire tail like other lizard species. Crested Geckos do not regenerate their tail if they drop it, and they are affectionately called “frog butts” after they drop their tail. Tail drops can occur due to fear, rough handling, loud startling noises, being chased, or seemingly overnight for no apparent reason at all. If your gecko drops their tail, do not panic! Their tail will wiggle for a while as a defense mechanism. Move your gecko to a paper towel or brown Kraft paper substrate (for cleanliness) if possible, and ensure the tail area does not get dirty. Reach out to us with any questions. Dropping their tail natural, and almost every crested gecko observed in the wild is tailless.  

• Shedding: Crested geckos shed every 4-8 weeks, depending on their size and age. Younger crested geckos may be more prone to shedding problems (like stuck shed on their toes or tail) than adults. Visually check your gecko’s toes, tail, and body for signs of stuck shed. You may never see your gecko shed, as they often shed at night and eat their entire shed! You may know your gecko is about to shed if they appear a duller gray color for a few days.  

• Vitamins and supplements: If you are feeding only a powdered crested gecko diet, no additional vitamin supplementation is needed. If you are feeding live insects 1-3x a week, you can use a vitamin (like Zoo Med ReptiVite) once every 2 weeks instead of your calcium powder dusting as a vitamin. We use Repashy Calcium Plus to dust all live insects every feeding, as it is a calcium and vitamin supplement in one that is designed for more regular use.  

• High humidity concerns: Keeping your crested gecko in a constantly wet (over-sprayed) environment is detrimental to their health. See “humidity” section above, and ensure they have a 50% humidity drop or dry-out period. Prolonged wet/high humidity without a dry-out humidity drop between misting can cause excessive mold and bacteria growth, upper respiratory infections, and stuck shed (inability to shed leading to various health problems).